Photographing A Takahe Release, in Fiordland, 2019

The Takahē, a New Zealand native bird, was rediscovered in 1948, by Dr Geoffrey Orbell. SInce then, the bird has slowly been making a come-back with Department of Conservation assistance.

The population dropped down to 77, back in 2015 when there was a stoat plague, followed by major flood that caused landslides, killing the flightless takahē. These days, the DOC Recovery Programme is using science-based conservation techniques to develop the population.

And so it was, that I had the extraordinary experience of photographing the latest batch of two and three-year-old takahē, being released in the Murchison Mountains. We picked them up from the Burwood Takahē Centre near Te Anau, checked them over and boxed them.

Burwood is where adult takahē teach the young birds skills they will need to survive in the wild. This release group was the highest number released into the Murchison Mountains. The previous highest number was 29 in summer 2015/16.

DOC Takahē Recovery Team senior ranger Glen Greaves says, “The Murchison Mountains has been considered the home of takahē since their rediscovery there in 1948 yet maintaining a robust population at this site has been challenging.  Achieving this, while also growing takahē numbers elsewhere, is a true measure of the success of our takahē recovery work.

“After battling for decades to bring the Murchison Mountain population up to its natural limit, maintaining these numbers would be a huge reward for takahē staff past and present, and for our partners Ngāi Tahu and Fulton Hogan, and our supporters.

“We look forward to future surveys showing that takahē have once again occupied long vacant territories around the Murchison Mountains.”

“With the overall takahē population growing at more than 10% a year, other suitable sites with low predator numbers for new wild populations need to be found,” says Glen Greaves.

Note that last photograph. A Kea was keen on checking out the inner workings of the Helicopter … and didn’t move until the pilot climbed right up there and shooed him away.

Source: DOC website.

And I Am Back ...

Everything has changed in the months since I last wrote …

The change was unexpected and the pressure of it all has, only just, begun to ease a little.

It’s 3 months since Dad moved into the Resthome. Since then, I’ve gone through his house, storing some things, giving away others, and selling a little bit. It was huge. It sold quickly, and he experienced the relief of no longer having to watch how he spent his money.

Dad worked so hard, all of his life, and so it was lovely to drive him around, as he replaced his glasses; the ones that fell to pieces weekly. And to have his troublesome teeth repaired/removed and replaced.

He has settled into his new life, quite beautifully. It was time. I’ve watched as he’s thrived in the new, gentler, full-time-care, environment.

He looks younger than he’s looked in years. His osteo-arthritis and gout pain is being managed so much better than we could do it at home. He has routines and schedules that make his heart sing … something else we couldn’t manage at home.

If he’s in pain, or anxious, the staff at his little resthome are there to reassure and/or treat him. His tea is ready at 5pm, every day. He has friends, entertainment, and a room of his own.

I couldn’t wish for more for him, as his mind slips and shifts some days, sometimes much more than others.

Although, he still knows, for sure, that I’m not his granddaughter.

In the meantime, during these last 3 months, I’ve found a job that I love and I’ve moved to the lower south-west, here in New Zealand. I’m living and working in Fiordland, New Zealand. It’s an incredible place, where Nature is in the ascendent and man simply works out how to live in the midst of it all.

Te Anau receives something like 1.500mm of rain per year, and Milford Sound … a meagre 8,000mm. And I love it. Rain has always been special to me and I realise now, after living here in the 90s, that Fiordland rain was the rain I wanted to experience where ever I lived in the world. But no place else had the pristine natural space that is here and so torrential rain was never going to be as sweet-smelling and as glorious as it is down here.

I work in the Visitor Centre, and it’s a far-cry from how I imagined that job might play out. It’s so much more. Mostly I’m absolutely loving the fact that the world drops by daily, wanting advice on what to see and do. Actually, mostly people want to know what the weather will be and that, my lovely friend, is impossible to know.

We have the science of the NZ Met Service’s weather report but Fiordland can do almost anything outside the constraints of that prediction. I love that no one really knows precisely how things will play out when it comes to the weather.

I live about 22kms from Te Anau … it’s an escape to the country, at the kind invitation of an old friend from the 90s. I moved quite a few weeks ago but I go back to Dad, and to Miss 15, every second ‘weekend’.

‘Weekend’ because my new weekend is Monday and Tuesday, and I’m good with that. It leaves me free to do all that needs done over in Dunedin and Mosgiel. The same goes when I get to stay here, on alternate weekends. I actually managed to see a doctor, and that’s taken a while to do properly.

So I’m loving my new life. I feel so very fortunate. I love my new bed and bedroom. Mark, formerly known as Dad’s cat Mark, has gone beyond expectations and settled in here, on the farm. He caught 4 mice, in 12 hours, the other day. Made possible by a double Mast this season, gifting the rodents many seeds, creating an exploding population of mice, rats, ferrets, weasels and stoats. Needless to say, that translates as a nightmare for our native bird population.

One of the things I am really loving about this life, is the passion I’m finding amongst staff, down here at DOC (the department of conservation) in Te Anau. My colleagues are passionate about protecting and developing New Zealand’s natural wilderness and wildlife. It’s a beautiful thing to be a part of.

But anyway, more to follow. This is just a note, to tell you I’m back … almost thinking again, and about to head off on a grand adventure in the days ahead.

The view … from Fraser’s Beach, Lake Manapouri. A sunrise, with special people.

Manapouri sunrise, November 2019.jpg

Life After Living With Dad ...

You have adapted and thrived in different countries, communities, and circumstances. You have the ability to forge relationships and understanding. You’re determined, creative, resilient and resourceful. You don’t need to tell your whole story in a letter. Tell enough to intrigue them, you hemisphere-jumping, continent-crossing traveler.

Veronica McCabe Deschambault, writer, artist, editor, wrote about me.

Dad and I.jpg

We are now entering the days ‘after’ the months of caring for Dad.

The days where I begin again. I’m searching for work, for a home …

I have been moving out into the rest of the house, for the weeks that I can continue to live here … previously I had restricted myself to my bedroom but then Dad was admitted to a local rest-home, quite unexpectedly.

You see, he was scratched by Mark, his tabby cat, and the wound became infected. We were working on it, with the doctor and antibiotics, with the District Nurse coming in twice per week, with the care-workers who helped with his pressure stockings watching for heat or spreading redness.

One night, I heard Dad moving around and, by then, his mind was slipping more often. Nights were restless for him. I went out to see why he was in the lounge. It was almost midnight. He was freezing, he said, as he turned on the heater.

For some reason, I missed the big clue and filled him a hot-water bottle, made him a hot cup of tea, and got him back to his bed.

His breath became laboured. And, very quickly, I thought I was losing him … one frosty misty night in the middle of winter.

I called the ambulance and they came, eventually. I called them back, just to check because Dad was struggling to breathe, and time has a tendency to slow down when you’re waiting for someone to come save your Dad.

They diagnosed his high temperature, almost immediately (how did I miss that), and listened to his chest. It was fluid-filled. He was in congestive heart failure.

They were great, filled him with all kinds of drugs, put him on oxygen, and rolled him out to the ambulance. I went with him.

13 hours later, a bed was found in the hospital, and Dad was in for a few days and I went home. It was a little like having jetlag, after 30+ hours awake. But it was good, it felt like he was safe and secure, and I was off-duty.

The fever passed, they stopped the antibiotics in ER but he stayed in hospital more than a week, as they pumped him full of a drug that drained the fluid from all over his body.

He came home but he was never the same … for all kinds of reasons.

He had loved the 24./7 presence of people, there in the hospital. Dad has always been a very social man, and it very quickly reached the point where he would call me, if I left the house for more than an hour. My world was already small. It had became simpler not to go out in the evenings, simpler not to go out for too long but this was more of a strait-jacket existence. I was exhausted.

He was more confused, as the Dementia - probably made worse by anxiety, when alone and those phone calls were about where I could find him when I came back ‘to pick him up’.. But he was always at home, he was simply forgetting. He would forget where his bedroom was. His dinner routine. Everything, just sometimes.

He wanted to go home … but he meant a return to childhood. It became more and more stressful but we were coping. Adjusting.

We were fortunate. The powers that be came in to assess his needs, after his time in hospital. He was worse than we realised. The assessor made a phone call and 5 days later, Dad had a place in a local rest home - 2 weeks of respite care.

To my relief, he accepted that we both needed a break but then the rest home situation became like a runaway horse. I hadn’t imagined admitting him, and he was still adamant he wouldn’t go … then he was in.

These days, 3 or 4 weeks since admission … it is taking longer than I had expected, for me, to accept it. I struggled with guilt, had I tricked him? How would he cope? Could I have done more, held on a bit longer?

Meanwhile, there is Dad, generally thriving.

He has a gang of armchair friends. The staff are telling me he’s lovely to deal with, ‘a great sense of humour’. And this man, who had built his life around routines and regimes that couldn’t be messed with, is slipping into his new life with ease.

And I am still visiting him, on or two times per day. It’s a lovely place. Small, just 33 residents. Routines that delight Dad … especially when they involve food. He feels safe, and warm, and secure. He’s not lonely any more. He is taken care of by others and his anxiety is quickly dealt with.

Slowly I’m learning how to let go, that our time of sharing his house is over and I’m just his daughter again.. His Dementia continues to advance however he still knows me. I introduce myself, whenever possible, as his granddaughter. He’s in there, immediately, saying ‘No, you’re my bloody daughter!’ Seemingly outraged that I would even try that :-)

The words I began this post with … Veronica reminding me of life before Dad. Reminding me I can start over again … how many times have I done it already.

And so here I am, waiting for the next wave, as I organise his ‘stuff’ for a downsize, and the sale of his home to pay for the rest home.

I’m learning. Always learning.

Writing a new Resume, deciding on Cover Letters, dancing the dance of starting over again.

Here’s to the next part of the adventure.


Breakfast Rituals ...

Rituals have been, and still are, all about finding ways to survive, and thrive, in the different lives I have lived.

I was making my breakfast this morning, thinking about the fact that putting together a perfect breakfast has always been my first task, after moving countries.

Finding the bread I liked best, the coffee, the butter, the jam … or whatever it was that I loved in the early mornings of those other lives.

In Istanbul, it was Trabzon bread. A big soft loaf of loveliness, that surely wasn’t good for my body but had the power to save my soul on the bad days.

In Belgium, the UK, Berlin, London, then Surrey, I’m not sure I remember the details of type but Trabzon bread stuck because it was so good, and so very difficult to name, back at the beginning of my time spent living in that ancient Turkish city.

I looked on a map just now, having never really officially named the smaller shopping mall I used when I lived in Ataköy. Searching, I found the Plus Mall, and I’m almost sure it was there, in the bakery section.

I remembered how naive I was, shocked to realise that sugar, flour and butter, had other names in other languages. Names so different to those I knew, that it was like starting over. Words like tereyağı for butter, and şeker for sugar.

I lived very lightly there because I was divorced and alone, just trying to find the money to go home and buy a house and stability for my daughter and I. My ability to create more than a breakfast ritual was limited by my lack of courage, and by the fact I was completely alone in that new life.

I had friends, and I knew people but I was ashamed of how little I knew. And, back then, I was mostly too embarrassed to ask for help.

Although, I suspect it was there that I became addicted to feeling slightly drunk, or high, as I learned to navigate a world so unlike mine, that life was mostly surreal.

I was Alice, and the rabbit holes became part of my everyday life. The gunman loose in the school. The wheel that fell off my taxi. The woman who fell past my 5th storey balcony. The salesmen I used to sit chatting with in the Grand Bazaar. My walks through the city, when I moved over to Mecidiyeköy, from the Taksim Square Metro, through Galata, over the bridge and into Sultanahmet.

Then I met a Belgian, stopped in Antwerp … on my way back to New Zealand, married him, and stayed for 10 years. My breakfast ritual was simpler there. I tried and discarded more than a few coffee machines. I had fallen in love with Genova by then and so I loved good espresso, more than anything

I tried so many different breads during those years. My ultimate breakfast was an espresso, with a croissant, butter and peach jam. It was there, as the end of my marriage loomed, that I had to add blood pressure pills to my morning ritual.

In the UK, Kim introduced me to bagels. Another first. Another love. Espresso and bagel, with butter and jam, for that year I spent living in Portsmouth and Farnham, London and Oxshott. I picked up a Nespresso machine somewhere along the way because when decent coffee was too far away, Nespresso did the job on those mornings.

And then came the summer I was offered the chance to take care of a friend’s cats, over in Italy, in that city I had fallen for way back in 2008.

Terrified, I said yes. Gave my up income and moved to Genova, a city that closed over summer.

It was sometimes a dark time, out in the suburbs, a little bit terrified about what I had done.

How would I get home to NZ if I had made the mistake it seemed like I might have made?

But the city saved me. As it always has, just in the nick of time.

My breakfast of choice became walking through those medieval streets to one of 3 favourite bars, for a brioche alla crema e caffè.

Genova gifted me the holiest of holy breakfasts. My breakfast on the terrace, back when I had a room in the palazzo on Via Cairoli, was probably the best of my home breakfasts. Equal, perhaps, with my breakfast sitting out on the steps, with the water of Otago Harbour just across the narrow road, back when I lived at Broad Bay, in Dunedin.

This morning, I was making my breakfast and realising, my ritual is failing me here in Mosgiel. I don’t feel any joy in it. It feels empty. I’m not sure how to fix that. I can’t for now.

The espresso I drink here, comes without Roberto’s smile at the bar on Via Garibaldi; without the conversation with the people at Douce, and the greeting at Pasticceria Caffetteria Arleo, before going up to spend days with Marc.

Genova gifted me the best of so many things. Breakfasts too.

It is my place, if I could choose.

douce, genova.jpg